30.8.2011

Rainy Kjuge

Clouds come and go as they want. This time they didn't go anywhere. Wet drizzle made anything else than 4th grade unclimbable. Bad luck, but it didnt stop us. In the pic starring Syra 4, first of the L-circuit. A nice one! No use for chalk.


Kluvna Sten is huge!

Under the leaf roof were still some dry holds, or let's say moist, but topping too desperate.

I can believe that during early spring or very late autumn this place can give awesome kicks. The topo is very high quality. Easy to read and enough photos to give essential beta.





More slab.
Huge!! On the other side of that piece of rock is the Linds långa linje.


Art pictures by Lauri. Even the bug seemed to look for a better shelter from the rain.
And here we have the Best picture from Kjuge. Wind blew from east, so west side of the big blocks were still dry. Good, good. There is so much to climb in Kjuge. Have to go back.

26.8.2011

Knutby

Our first destination on the rock trip was Knutby. It happened to be nicely on the way to Kjuge, close to Linköping. According to the info that was aviable in the net, the place was described to be a really nice one (Ett väldigt fint ställe). So why not going there then.




Lauri sending!!!



And the topo was correct. It was a really nice spot, not actually really far from Stockholm. It was good to send something on the way, kind of warm up for Kjuge.. (and good that we did, cos Kjuge was rainy all the time). The hardest send was surprisingly a 6b+ slab. Otherwise just having fun. I had one week break before the trip. Easy start. 
There is also a major overhang, well, perhaps next time. Have a look at the topo here. Altogether I think that Knutby is a gem and it would a perfect spot for one weekend bouldering trip. Two hours is definitely not enough!!

And you cannot drive 600 km distance on the motorway without good music.
Paul Kalkbrenner Gebrünn Gebrünn (Special Berlin Calling Edit)

15.8.2011

Bouldering and boarding

Photos from Mynämäki. Nuorempana urheilin 6b+ session. Then we went to visit Masku boulder, because it was more or less on the way. Elmar got spyched and opened his line, Pastella 5(+?). I added the location to 27 crags:  http://27crags.com/crags/maskun-koulu/topos



In the evening recovery skateboarding along the river side, yeaah!

12.8.2011

Board

Going home after checking out library car event in Turku.
Off day music by Foals; Big Big Love (Fig. 1)

8.8.2011

reenii

My training today. Filmed partly it. Here are some screenshots. Some running, fingerboarding, bouldering at Tehdas, and more finger boarding. What a good day! I feel exhausted! Cannot say anything else than: Nyt on hyvä fiiwis!!

7.8.2011

Berlin & Heinävaara

Couple of weeks only travelling, alot. The beginning of July was pretty intensive in the sense of training, so little off time was needed. We went to Germany, Berlin for a friends wedding and some wind power business. Before the fly back I managed to go for a quick set in Kegel. The only climbing in 10 days!! Flashed some competition boulders, perhaps 6a-6b, which is my standard at the moment. Here are some pics from Kegel.



We drove more or less straight to Joensuu to continue well started holidays. Had to make a visit to Heinis, which still is my home crag. Very many good memories, that's where I started rock climbing.
This time I went there with Sami Koponen, who was on fire like totally, redpointing sevens in a row. This was impressive to witness. The weather was hot, I mean really hot, as the crag is facing west. Perhaps it was the heat or German diet (wurst + pilsner) or both that made me feel really insecure in leading. The thing in climbing is that it is 1/3 physical, 1/3 mental and the rest is just balls.


During my history, before climbing took the major role in my hobbyes, I used to go fly fishing. On the way back to Turku we checked couple of nice rivers. This one is called Kerman kosket. A reknown trout place. Water is crystal. Good place to spend time and relax, after all, the catch isn't the most important, because you are the one that is hooked.