Kolartorp

Edit 12.7.2011
In the morning I decided to bike to Gplan and buy miself a treat for breakfast. After the shopping in 711 my will to explore the city won and rode first to Södermalm, then Gamlastan, all the way downtown to Naturkompaniet (outdoorshop). Bought Kjugetopo as a souvenier, because I wanted to have something nice to read with my morning tea.
It was my first biking experience in Stockholm and enjoyed it. I like the city. Could even imagine to live there and not only because the region holds as much rock climbing as Finland altogether, but it has a nice city-feeling. (In this case with climbing I mean rope climbing..)

Later Kolartorp. Alot of walls and slab.
Didn't really fancy that place, can be that we didn't hit the best spots during that evening.
Here we have a couple pics from the day. Fruits in a bowl and Mikko cranking up psyched some fiver.

The zone

Flaten took it's toll (and the night out), so sunday was trad. Mikko did alot better this time, no hangdogging, but instead some bold runners. I had to swallow couple of times while belaying on the stand.

My last climb of the day, toproping one 6b, was excellent. Start hand jamming, which is definitely not my dish, then little thinner finger crack and eventually crimps and very sensitive and holdless top out. Five star route! For a bouldernist 20-30 meters is alot. So during the last climb I really got into the zone, trusting the feet and believing that there is always somekind of hold coming up, even if I doubted it quite alot. I liked that feeling, going to the climbing zone and just carrying on.

This picture is from the mentioned *f*i*v*e* star route.

Stokan beettaa jalostamassa

Greetings from Stoka. We had a marvelous day in the destinations of Skevik & Flaten. Mikko hangdogged one 6c in Skevik, basic stuff on the face, middle sector. I gave it a go with toprope, had to be careful with the hand. Flaten=hangdog 6c+, some other kind of dog or cat or what ever on 6c and more dogging on Baretta. Got dark and eventually tired. Baretta has good crimps wide apart on 45 degree. Yeah, one move and that was it, not further. Hand did hurt, but only when Mikko fell on the rope and I went on reactions, clutching the rope too hard too fast. Otherwise it seems good, healing fast!!!!! Every climbing day is a good climbing day; when you still got 10 good old buddies in a row ready for action, fingers.

Can also recommend Scandic hotel, I havent eaten such a big break fast for a long time!!! Tomorro more climbing, perhaps stories as well. But now it's time for night life;)
cu
First picture is from the face we didn't climb and the another one shows the 6c, which is left side of the arete. Both are from Skevik.

Dallas tune 30

Helmikuinen tiedusteluretki sujui varsin mukavasti. Monen moista beettaa kertyi ja muutama hyisen boulderin jälkeen fiilis parani entisestään. Kävin tsekkaamassa djurgåårdenin kivet sekä Mynssenin panimon huudit.

Mynchenbryggeriet, ei paskempi paikka. Lyhkästä sporttia 45reittiä, jokaiselle jotain. Mestoille kävelee vanhasta kaupungista öbaut varttitunnissa ja matkan varrella voi ihastella stokan maisemia, jos ei satu olemaan kiire. Djurgårdenin kivet ovat puolestaan Kaknästornin suunnalla, bussilla pääsee, takuulla lupaus seikkailusta.

February, beta trip to Stockholm. That city has interestingly alot of climbing, have to go there at summer time for more. The block in the picture is from Djurgården, close to Kaknästornet. In Mynchenbryggeriet (basicly in the old town) there is a good roping location, short sport. 45 routes according the official topobook.
Thanks to the guys who gave beta via forums, perhaps next time locals could show me the way to the best spots/routes/boulders?
I can recommend the outdoorshops Naturkompaniet and specially playgroundstore, where the service was really good:) After all, Stockholm is only rough 300km away from Turku, and on the way there it's possible to make a stop at Geta. 2009-02-28 @ 23:03 

Jos jotain on tullut opittua näistä kiipeilytouhuista, niisse on se, että eka vierailu jollain supermestalla on aina se beta-reissu. Sitä on vaan niin hämillään kaikesta beetasta, jota spreijataan joka suunnasta, että sen sulattelussa menee ainakin viikko. Proper beta takes time to digest. näihä se on, jees. Käytiin tuolla mynskillä toisen kerran syksyllä 2010, kirjotan värikynäkkään tarinan (toivottavasti kynäkkään) heti kunhan arkistointi antaa periksi. Kuvaa ja filkkaakin on. Varmuudella lähettiin onsaittaa vitosia, ettei kukaan vaan ois sturtsannut. Suoraan laivalta rynnittiin mestoille, okok, käytiin 7ilevenillä ryystämässä kahvit, jostain syystä ei nukuttu hirveesti laivalla.. nojoo, kirjotellaan siitä sitten toiste. Minuuttii, jäkittäää!