Näytetään tekstit, joissa on tunniste trad. Näytä kaikki tekstit
Näytetään tekstit, joissa on tunniste trad. Näytä kaikki tekstit

18.7.2011

pure 6b

Today some basic roping in Ravattula. 2x6b and one solo.
First trad with two pieces of pro, then soloed. Very easy, very short. Notice: I don't recommend soloing to anyone.

In my opinion the route is too easy for soloing when you still think something.. e.g. "be careful, be careful, be careful..", or, "there is the muffing, just grab it and dont think about falling..high step and then you just rock over, you got it.."
 

What was it that Mr. Reardon used to say..
"You are in this eight foot egg shell. It's a fragile egg shell. Eight feet round and surrounds your body. Thats the only thing you notice. You dont hear anything, dont get excited, you dont get depressed, if a bird flies of the crag, it doesn't face you. You have to stay a hundred procent focused. You either get it or you dont. And if you dont solo, you'll never get it. Once you have soloed, you had a piece of it. Once you soloed alot, you really got a piece of it. When you solo everyday, now you'll understand."

From the movie Return 2 Sender. Actually a pretty cool film. We all miss you Michael, where ever you are. You really had it dude, respect.

12.7.2011

Kustavi, Riskeläisvuori

Trad. It must be several years since I placed nuts and cams. I didn't make it to the Kustavi-meeting last weekend, but on Sunday decided still to go to Kustavi with Lauri J. We wanted something really easy, just hanging out. First for a coffee and a donut at the Vuosnainen then to Riskeläisvuori. It was really alot of fun onsighting trad 4. The grade is totally solid, but still OS is always OS. Really good training, full day.

Oh, yes.. and on the way back, it was around 01:30, we saw a guy crumbled down on the road. First I thought that this guy had too many drinks, or worse, hit by a car.. nope.. A young man "Mr. N." had walked all the way from Turku to there.. like 45km and was heading to Uusikaupunki. Like WHAT??? Dude seriously?!?! Of course we dropped him to his place. Quite a champ. He must have been walking at least 7-10 hours in the summer heat.

I think that a really good combination is hard sport on pushing days and easy trad on rest days. Can climb all the time, non stop, every day. Besides, who wouldnt want to belaying on the top of that crag (in the pic) and just watch scenery. Good, full day, good memories, good climbing, fun.