Uuteen nousuun

Last year it was more or less only bouldering. This summer the focus has been on roping mainly. Lets see until end of the autumn how far this trend goes. Gonna rock hard! Still got a pretty long list of projects. Repeating, repeating, repeating, repeating and linking the repeats in a chain. Moving fast forward.
 

pure 6b

Today some basic roping in Ravattula. 2x6b and one solo.

First trad with two pieces of pro, then soloed. Very easy, very short. Notice: I don't recommend soloing to anyone.

In my opinion the route is too easy for soloing when you still think something.. e.g. "be careful, be careful, be careful..", or, "there is the muffing, just grab it and dont think about falling..high step and then you just rock over, you got it.."
 

What was it that Mr. Reardon used to say..
"You are in this eight foot egg shell. It's a fragile egg shell. Eight feet round and surrounds your body. Thats the only thing you notice. You dont hear anything, dont get excited, you dont get depressed, if a bird flies of the crag, it doesn't face you. You have to stay a hundred procent focused. You either get it or you dont. And if you dont solo, you'll never get it. Once you have soloed, you had a piece of it. Once you soloed alot, you really got a piece of it. When you solo everyday, now you'll understand."

From the movie Return 2 Sender. Actually a pretty cool film. We all miss you Michael, where ever you are. You really had it dude, respect.

Keep on pushing hard

As you see. This year started with pretty bad news. I broke my pulley, A1, in left hand.. And now.. I'm climbing the hardest ever in my life. I have been given the chance to train nonstop for three weeks and the results are incredibly motivating. I try to take the last year and all the training I missed now back. I'm really hungry, really eager, really motivated and getting fit. At this moment even the off-days start to make sense to avoid injuries and over shape. I think that I never had such thick skin in fingers. I keep on pushing, eventually it will work out.

Yesterday I climbed at Ravattula and Mäntymäki. Altogether sending two 6b. Did the Törmäystestinukke without preclipping or crashpad. Thanks to Matti and Simo for spotting. First time I tried this route like three years ago, now sent easily, great!

Kustavi, Riskeläisvuori

Trad. It must be several years since I placed nuts and cams. I didn't make it to the Kustavi-meeting last weekend, but on Sunday decided still to go to Kustavi with Lauri J. We wanted something really easy, just hanging out. First for a coffee and a donut at the Vuosnainen then to Riskeläisvuori. It was really alot of fun onsighting trad 4. The grade is totally solid, but still OS is always OS. Really good training, full day.

Oh, yes.. and on the way back, it was around 01:30, we saw a guy crumbled down on the road. First I thought that this guy had too many drinks, or worse, hit by a car.. nope.. A young man "Mr. N." had walked all the way from Turku to there.. like 45km and was heading to Uusikaupunki. Like WHAT??? Dude seriously?!?! Of course we dropped him to his place. Quite a champ. He must have been walking at least 7-10 hours in the summer heat.

I think that a really good combination is hard sport on pushing days and easy trad on rest days. Can climb all the time, non stop, every day. Besides, who wouldnt want to belaying on the top of that crag (in the pic) and just watch scenery. Good, full day, good memories, good climbing, fun.

Vaasa

I combined a work trip with bouldering, worked out well. I met my old neighbour by accident, Sami. Thanks to Anssi, I got couple of phonenumbers and Jukka (+Sami) came along to the rocks.

I was impressed by the stock of boulders. Here Sami cranking up Fermioni 6c. A truly good boulder, was close sending it, but too early. Had zero training behind. Like always in bouldering, I could do all the moves, but linking them was too heavy, but it didn't bother me. Already the feeling of climbing something new cool stuff made me thrilled, happy and motivated. I knew that this summer I would go further.

Juhannus..

Olhava, Bronson Brothers, Tentsauna, Kantti, Jussi Juhannus.

Tentsauna, thanks to JuGka, good job man. Liquid friction..

Ne Kuuluisat Bronsonin Veljekset..

Kuvassa Olhavan varmistuspoliisi Mr J. Bronson. Tämä mies koputtaa olkapäähäsi, jos laitat et varmista asiallisesti.

aawwww....

Flaten & Ågesta

Final day = 8 hours of climbing.
First 6 hours in Flaten and 2 hours in Ågesta. It got very close not to find anyone for Flaten. Luckily this downer didn't happen. Thanks to Attila.

Our roping started with onsight attempts for 6c and 6b, then hangdoggin 6c and toproping one short 7a. When we started to leave, around six o'clock two guys came climbing and we had a chat. In the pic Anders L. on Columbo 7c+, Flaten.

Ågesta, bouldering at the "countryside". Koboulder, cow boulder. Pretty messed up stuff.. The cows had shit all around the block. I had already good heat on after Flaten, so two lines and then trying the mantel problem. That was good, or should I say.. not so shitty..