Chris Sharma’s journal (published by Climbing n. 221).
http://www.freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=1
Perhaps many of you have read it already long time ago, but I find it interesting how Chris defines his way of climbing and attitudes towards egoism, media and grading. Maybe it's the first step becoming better than you already are when forgetting the grade-hunt altogether. Of course climbing on the limit gives the best kicks (specially after long wanted success), but is there any other way to measure the effort than putting letters behind the ascent? For example “this route will make you first loose your mind, but eventually it makes you happy: seven happiness points and two extra for better life quality!”
According to this article Chris is continuously chasing after virtues: being humble and honest, open to people, staying close to nature.. I respect people who consider and stand behind their actions, who keep listening the inner voice, who are brave to ponder moral issues as well as having a high moral ground. I think that inner harmony gives better concentration and in climbing it means better performance. Or could it be like Chris said "Climbing is merely one of the ways to exist, pass the time and evolve and grow from one moment to the next. That's all."
(May 29th 2008)
Even if I find this old writing little funny, my opinion has not changed since 2008 and now I saw that Mr. Sharma started blogging http://chrissharma.petzlteam.com, which is nice of course. He writes that: "For me learning to not feel obligated to go climbing even though there are 50 projects waiting to be done right out my door, has been key to sustaining my motivation over a long period of time.
Anyway, for me I find my climbing is more effective like this. Often I send my hardest routes upon return from a nonclimbing trip, because I'm well rested and super psyched. Keeping the motivation and the body fresh is no doubt super important."
http://www.freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=1
Perhaps many of you have read it already long time ago, but I find it interesting how Chris defines his way of climbing and attitudes towards egoism, media and grading. Maybe it's the first step becoming better than you already are when forgetting the grade-hunt altogether. Of course climbing on the limit gives the best kicks (specially after long wanted success), but is there any other way to measure the effort than putting letters behind the ascent? For example “this route will make you first loose your mind, but eventually it makes you happy: seven happiness points and two extra for better life quality!”
According to this article Chris is continuously chasing after virtues: being humble and honest, open to people, staying close to nature.. I respect people who consider and stand behind their actions, who keep listening the inner voice, who are brave to ponder moral issues as well as having a high moral ground. I think that inner harmony gives better concentration and in climbing it means better performance. Or could it be like Chris said "Climbing is merely one of the ways to exist, pass the time and evolve and grow from one moment to the next. That's all."
(May 29th 2008)
Even if I find this old writing little funny, my opinion has not changed since 2008 and now I saw that Mr. Sharma started blogging http://chrissharma.petzlteam.com, which is nice of course. He writes that: "For me learning to not feel obligated to go climbing even though there are 50 projects waiting to be done right out my door, has been key to sustaining my motivation over a long period of time.
Anyway, for me I find my climbing is more effective like this. Often I send my hardest routes upon return from a nonclimbing trip, because I'm well rested and super psyched. Keeping the motivation and the body fresh is no doubt super important."
Let's hope that he updates his blog often in the future. And as we know, the motivation is the key.
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