Last weekend my left hand said loudly snap!
You guess right. Over ten years managed to climb before any bigger finger damage. This week I have been talking to many people who have or have had pulley problems and all say the same: Five days ibuprofein, 1-2 weeks rest, then only easy climbing for 1-4 months.
It's good to remember that even if it doesnt hurt anymore, it may not be fully healed. So have to take it easy, less bouldering.
31.3.2011
17.3.2011
Nummibeta 2010
Tänä vuonna, eli 2011, käytiin tsekkaamassa Konala-Ouppenin jälkeen Nummi, se kun on mukavasti matkan varrella Turkuun mennessä, ja mesta vaikutti 90% kuivalta. Kesä tulloo. Uuujee!
Memories from towers 2010
Sandstone towers, only knots for protection, no chalk. Guess did I lead? We made a quick stop on the rocks before driving to Dresden. We had immense luck, cos it started to rain in the evening. And everbody knows that rain and sandstone climbing doesnt mix. Here we have a couple of pix: Kleme leading his way on some fiver. Esa is sitting and pondering something about the way of the world. 15.3.2011
Memories from rainy cave 49
Vienna, flak tower. A very smooth climbing place in the city center. I tell you, it was certainly the best view over city. First leading up to 30meter height, of course:) In the pic Cleme leading some warm up. There is whole alot of history behind the flak tower, but I'm not going to go all that trough. Luckily the present purpose is to entertain climbers, and why not the people passing by. At least the falling training that we did seemed to attract people. Falling 5-10meters was insane, but fun. I kind of got addicted to it:) Jump, let go, scream, bounce a while and then,,, do it again! 2010-09-07 @ 20:59
Oli siistii. Itävalloissa on muutenkin kaikenlaista tehtävää, jos sille päälle sattuu. Siellä tyyppailin ekaa 7c:tä. Ehkä jonkun muuvin pääsin yläköydellä ja sitte oli broilerit a.k.a. forkut käsivarret jumissa puolisen viikkoa. Yhden sormen poketti jäi kummittelemaan tuolta reissulta.
Tässä kuva keivistä. Oli sateinen päivä, joten suunnattiin tollaseen varmaan paikkaan. Tyyppaamani reitti tuolla luolan perällä missä tyypit seisoskelee. Kokeilin yhtä kattokutosta, mutta ei sekään irronnu. Ehkä edellisen päivän juhlimisella oli jotain osuutta asiaan. Oli miten oli, ei se 7c mitenkään mahrottomalta näyttänyt. Ainoostaan se yhen sormen poketti vaikutti pikkasen spookilta. No onneks sitä on nyt reenattu. Mikähän tuon mestan nimi oli? Pitää ottaa selvää, eniveis, toi on topotettu.Oikeestaan ku tässä innostuu yötä myöten, ni kattokaas tossa noita ison bulgen jälkeisiä poketteja. Kohtuu jäätävää 8a:n settiä.. eli nyt aletaan n. 50 entryn jälkeen puhumaan jo asiaaaaaaa!! Kohtalaisen herkkää!!! Kotoinen graniitti on pelkkää lista ja krimppiä toisen perään, mut mut zuumaile huvikseks tota kuvaa, ni tiiät:D Yläreunassa oleva ankkuri ja pulttirivi antaa osviittaa. Eka kattoa ja siitä suoraan släbille, kreisii, mut siistii!!!
Pahis, eli pahamäki 47
Gabor on Mobilaattimies 6b, Affisboulder in Pahamäki. In my opinion it seemed little hard for 6b, but we climb rock, not grade (right jens?). Pahamäki has many many boulders, so can't wait to open new lines. Some info is found from Petris blog. Keep in touch guys, juhannus is coming!
2010-06-17 @ 22:44
Unkarin lahja Porin kiipeilylle kauhoo menemään Mobilaattimiestä. 6c-7a jotain siltä väliltä. Assis vetää käheäksi.
MARKKU 46
Couple pics from Hanhikivi, Noormarkku. Around 45degrees of overhang. The block is size of a house, which is nice of course, and access straight from the road. Bueno!
2010-06-07 @ 20:58
Hanhikivi, ihan sikana itikoita.
TITANIUM 45
The new playground with multiple sweet lines. Jussi projecting Titanium.
2010-06-03 @ 22:20
2010-06-03 @ 22:20
Assis, hard man, hard.
Olkiluoto 2010, memories 44
Now we know that Olkiluoto has nuclear power and power boulders. This one is really nice block, cool moves on a corner. Very sticky.
2010-05-27 @ 22:26
2010-05-27 @ 22:26
Now, I gotta say, that this picture is one of my personal favourites. Testing out the move at that time, could not do it last spring. Not at all, very difficult.
Memories 43 "5000 kcal intake"
Alot of repeating we did. Same old boulders over and over again. It seems that previous day maximal fueling played major role in my performance. I could imagine that sending great volumes of boulder cycles will transfer skills to rope climbing nicely. We'll see, latest in couple of months, but the gap between doing and overdoing is narrow unfortunately.
Climbing till dusk. Jusa & 4.Heinäkuuta 7a+
Tääkin oli hyvä päivä.
Spring 2010 42
Spring bouldering season is at its best in Turku. Everything is dry, ok, almost everything. Last week we were projecting like maniacs!Henkka sending Kapellimestari 7a.
Raunistula 7b, if you prefer slopers, this one is a treat for you!
It seems that my heelhook wasn't glued enough in.
Kärsämäki, projecting.
Tumppi lähettää! HSV!
2010-04-10 @ 15:25
Memories, Bouldernisti talvella 41
It took at least 50 attempts to finally send it. Fifty! In the snow at the winter, jiiz. Motivates, feels good and my new limit isn't even close. Somehow I found new perspective. Work hard for long time and then suddenly, for one tenth of a second, the feet flow right, incredible! Took one month to project it, but hey, four winter sessions. First time it was around minus 20 degrees, for bouldering thats my new subzero. That time in February it was only to find out, if I can make the first hardish move at all, AND I DID, so got so super psyched and kept on hitting granite week after week.
Big up and thanks to Henkka, Atte and Vojta. Specially to Vojta who kept on bouldering despite the snowfall with me, you got potential, man! Luckily we didn't run out of chalk too early today, wet conditions for real! Epical and unforgettable. Once I even flew horizontally off the rock! Surprisingly hilarious!Boulders at Luolavuori start to be ready for spring. Joogo block is soon totally snowfree. Bouldernisti is totally climbable because of our vigorous brushing. I wanted to top it all the way up today, so had to prepare and brush quite a lot snow and knock the ice away, hence a rope over the boulder for the snowjob.
2010-03-21 @ 21:01
Talvihommat on miun makuun. Tässä mallia miten eka oikee projekti tempaisi mukaansa, ja tulosta tuli:)
Memories from Konala 40
Konala bouldering competition. The new hall is simply great and I got many really good shots. Here are the best of them, enjoy. Big thanks goes to Henkka for the 300mm Tamron. In climbing, and why not in general in life, many small moments are very beautiful. Don't forget this, live it.
2010-03-10 @ 21:20
Power animals from archives 39
Rain, cold, wet. We gave our heat to the luolavuori boulders last weekend. Among the rocks we found the power animal that keeps us going on no matter what. Below are pics from the sessions. I feel that bouldering is little stiff when it gets colder, but effort makes the topping reward higher. Have to say, I got kicks when I could top out something and just stick to the rrrrock. Climbing kicks dont come too often you know, wonder whats the reason for it? Do we take things too granted? Is the harder grade only reason to climb? Anyway, the reward is one of the highest ways to keep motivated. Motivation is The key and too often these keys are lost. Luckily power animal can help, find it.
My training otherwise has been only building the pyramide, running on the wall indoors. I got also my friends inspired to aim for longer distances for the flow, which was kind of a miracle somehow. Alot of moves, alot of meters. My aim is to shoot 300-500meters per session. 1000m would be nice, but it seems too far yet for one session. Perhaps during one week, let's try. 2009-12-07 @ 22:03 
Näköjään syksyset kelit koitti myös vuonna 2009.
Talkkarin muisteluita 38
Tikkiteme oli liekeissä kesällä. . . Yeah, it's about time to start placing the awesome summer pics here, as you see they are spiced a little bit. Somehow it's hard to believe that the season is more or less over. Alot of things happened during the summer: good trips, some development even and only minor finger injuries. Now it's time to start spotting the weather windows between the cave visits. After all, climbing out went quite well last winter also.
Voi kirvellä, jos tosta lähtee pannuttamaan.
And is it so that, during the last half a year or so, the debates have grown here on 8a forum? I have been noticing that Jens has raised alot of feelings among our community. I think that it's quite unprofessional, specially if it is done on purpose. Is it?
But I'll get back to this issue later on some blog entry, perhaps.
But I'll get back to this issue later on some blog entry, perhaps.
Mie muuten pannutin kuten talkkari. Ei siinä mitään.. mutta siitä jäi sellanen puolen vartalon "kevyt" naarmu, eli legendat. Hieman kirveli, mutta jatkettiin kiipeilyä ja kuvauksia. Viimeseen asti painettiin. Tuostakin blokista pitäis topo tehä vissiin. Turkuboulderiiiiiii!
Muistoi 37
After checking the topo of Pinsiö, I had to visit Tampere during my holidays. So plenty of boulders and crags. Rami and Samu showed the places from Pyynikki to Pinsiö, and everything else in between. One point I felt like being tested, "you have to onsight this boulder.. and this classic slab.. c'moon, you have to send this 6b in instant.." thats what I heard three days in a row until my shoulders couldn't do anymore. From all the places Pinsiö was superior. Rock has delicious friction and the lines are in general clear and challenging. Can recommend warmly:)
Samu posing at Tahmela bouldering garden. Lush.Juzzi cranking Ruukkuäheltäjä 7a+ in Vuorivaara.
It was a honour to belay your first 7b dude:) 2009-08-02 @ 18:45
It was a honour to belay your first 7b dude:) 2009-08-02 @ 18:45
Joo, vanhoja muistoja ja stooreja, mutta tuo kuva Jussi Kelvinistä, se on kyllä hieno. Ilmeisesti jokin Ilosaariranneke kädessä vedetään, ehkä siitä saa lisäpotkua.
Vanhaa settiä 36
After last friday the weather turned to be wonderful, summer really started all over Finland. Midsummer feelings were enhanced by easy first ascents in Hirvensalo. Somehow I got the groove back, had bad time with frustrations and injuries for toooo long, maaaan. Seems that I didn't make enough basic workouts and just hit my head to the wall time after time. Or is it more a mental thing? Thinking you are strong and climb well, you climb well. Believing this is a sh#t day, it's a shi#t day and climbing is also crap. Can be. What ever the reason, at the moment climbing is only gettin better. The flow, u know, The flow is back!Here are some shots during last weekend.
Victory 5b, with sit start it might be a little bit harder. Corny name, i know, jeje, but the tophold is a V-shape pocket and the whole piece of boulder is V-shape, thus Victory;) Round shape and edges remind me from font. Let's hope the assis goes this summer..we'll see..
Some slopers above quite bad landing, beautiful though!
Now this is a piece of cookie that I know I can crack! Traversing smooth slopy edge running till the top. Jiiiz, cant wait to start really projecting. Laurizio tyyppaa cruxia, Imatran voima 7a.
Monta hyvää projektia.. ehkä joskus. Imatran voima on kyllä jees. Hirvensalo pitäis topottaa, Ville ym. ootteks messisä? Vai pidetäänks paikats sikretteinä?
Geta Beta 35
Last month was climbfully alright, alot of new experiences and acquantainces, and of course quite a bit of travelling. After Berlin it was time to head for Geta in Åland in Finnish archipelago to admire its beauty. And it was incredible. Everything from roofs to crimpy slabs, seaside boulders to high balls and walls! Also the nature and the access is nice. Some might think that 2-4km is a lot for an access, but the path goes trough various landscapes, relaxing views over the sea.
As we were wandering for the first time to Grottan it started to rain. But hey, all the roofs were dry!! Power climbing:D I felt unprepared for the roofs, but it was fun and something fresh. Jusa got really psyched about Voodoo 7a, almost managing it. Luckily my old forearm injury didn't mind too much about the powerful moves, actually quite opposite, and this made me also glad. I feel that there is a chance to get back on the track still this summer somehow. Carefully, carefully.. Patience, patience..Spotters ahoy! F-F-F-Falling from the Puerto rico 6c.
Geta on hieno paikka. Beettaa on ammennettu sieltä kaks kertaa, joten polut alkaa tulla tutuiksi jo tässä vaiheessa. Jopa muutama uusi tuttu on lisätty feisbuukkiin. Tähän kuvaan kyllä tiivistyy aika paljon: Päivä kiivetty, eväät syöty, nahkat lähteny, aurinko laskee, takas kämpille grillaamaan ja maisema.
Siis jos jokin on hienoa, niin se on kiivetä boulderia aivan veden äärellä. Siinä on kaikki elementit.
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